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The following guest post by Brian Carey will show you how to make a powerful macro glass using some old filters (and really good and cheap glass)
One method of delving into macro photography is to use adapter rings.
These rings have threads on both sides, one end is screwed onto your present camera lens like any filter and a second lens is attached in reverse onto the other end of the ring. So two lenses can be attached front to front using the adapter rings filter threads. You can buy these adapters or you can make them yourself by taking filters matching the thread sizes of the lenses being used and removing the glass and epoxying the rings together with the threads sticking out on both ends.
Don’t destroy any of your valued filters, however. You may find filters in the clearance bins at some of the larger photography stores. I have, and sometimes for as little as one dollar. For those who would like to make their own adapters the instructions with accompanying photo’s follow.
Please be careful and wear eye protection and gloves.
1) plastic bag, 2) safety glasses, 3) gloves, 4) pliers, 5) file, 6) hammer, 7) epoxy and mixing materials, 8) 2 filters
Put the filters in a heavy plastic bag and, wearing safety glasses, tap
the class in both filters with the hammer until it is free from the
filters. Then remove the filters from the bag and clean any excess
glass from the inside of the filters using a file or pliers.
Be careful
not to damage the filter threads. It would be a good idea to inspect
the filters thoroughly before proceeding.
The rings shown back to back and being prepared for the epoxy. I used a
5 minute epoxy however I thought it might be wise to let the epoxy
settle over night so the adapter would be able to hold the weight of
the reversed lens.
Sample rings Three adapter rings made by the author:
The final product used to join the two lenses:
Some good news is that the lens mounted as the reversed lens doesn’t have to match the camera body being used; it can be for a completely different manufacturer of camera.
The only thing that has to match are the filter sizes. This leaves you the flexibility of using any lens you might have lying around or you may be able to buy one for very little!
The magnification attained will be relative to the ratio of the focal length of the two lenses being used. The magnification (X) is equal to the focal length of the forward lens divided by the focal length of the reversed lens, X=focal length of the forward lens/focal length of the reversed lens. So we can achieve:
Now some would argue that anything less than life size, 1:1 is not macro but no matter what you call it we can experiment, learn and have fun!
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Comments
Now what would you do if
Now what would you do if your lenses have an extremely different filter size? My 70-200 has a 77mm thread and my 50mm has a 58mm thread size, is that difference too much?
77mm thread to 58mm thread sizes
This would be no problem but expect vignetting especially if you use the smaller diameter lens as the reversed lens. One important thing to keep in mind would be to ensure the smaller ring is centered inside the larger ring as best as possible when epoxying the rings together.
Good Luck
Brian Carey
alternative
I have a 52mm back-to-back, which I can use on some lens combinations, and I stack it with a 62/52 step-down adapter to attach another of my lenses.
Cheaper?
Those coupling ring is sold for about 5 EUR / USD in various sizes - i don't think someone should destroy a filter..
I've done this a couple of month before, if somebody likes a german version: http://timmermann.tv/news/248/extreme-makroaufnahmen-mit-dem-kupplungsri...
Could you post the message
Could you post the message in http://timmermann.tv/news/248/extreme-makroaufnahmen-mit-dem-kupplungsri... in English here please?
Thanx
here it is in English
via yahoo translation
Excellent!
I have been looking online for these rings. I never thought of making them myself. Great post. I'm going to give it a try.
Focusing and aperture
With regards to the reversed lens. I assume we focus that lens to infinity and the aperture is by default on its maximum or unless it has an aperture ring we set it the the largest aperture.
The the forward lens then is used to focus and control aperture correct?
Reversed lens aperature and focus
In many cases (if not all, maybe someone can enlighten us on this) when you focus a lens you are actually changing the focal length, perhaps ever so slightly. This may only be true with lenses which are external focus lenses. This may not be the case for internal focusing lens?? So I would suggest by adjusting the focus of the reverse lens you would be able to fine tune your magnification or tweak your focus.
The aperture of the reversed lens would be set wide open.
Hope this helps!
Brian Carey
Much Easier to buy
Go to B&H's web site, search macro coupler, pick the size pair that fits the lenses you plan on using, and $8 later you'll have a clean coupler. I have one and was going to write about how to use it, but never got around to it. 2 filters...no matter how cheap are more expensive than the couplers B&H have. I have one and it works great, and being all one piece it can better support the weight of the lenses attached.
Follow-up ideas
(1) Have a damp cloth and some Dust-Off handy to help ensure all the glass particles are gone and that the two surfaces being glued are clean and dry.
(2) An alternative is to buy cheap extension tubes. I got a set of three on eBay (this store: http://stores.ebay.ca/johncamerastore) for about $15 incl. shipping. Extension tubes have no glass, so build quality isn't critical. It just has to mount and thread well.
(3) Definition of 1:1 macro: the image is the same size on the image plane (the frame) as it is in real life. i.e. if you took a 1:1 macro picture of a pencil tip on 35mm film, you could hold the negative up to the pencil tip and the sizes will match.
Don't forget to factor in the size of your sensor. I have an Olympus E-510. The lens combination I use (25mm extension tube + 28mm lens) w/ focus set near (opposite of infinity) gets 0.99x macro (just short of 1:1) but the sensor size on a 4/3 camera is half the size of a 35mm frame. Print a 1:1 macro image from an 4/3 camera and one from a 35mm camera on 5x7 paper and put them side by side; the 4/3 frame will be more enlarged.
More ideas
Two things become quickly apparent the more we magnify our image:
(1) Depth of field becomes REALLY THIN
Expect difficulty with focusing. Use a small aperture to help with this a bit.
(a) We absolutely need a tripod; if our camera has a mirror lock-up anti-shake feature (where it snaps the mirror up and waits a couple of seconds before triggering the shutter) we must turn it on.
(b) We also need to focus not by adjusting the camera lens but by moving our camera rig or subject back and forth. This can get really tricky because tiny movements have great impact.
http://www.diyphotography.net/the-diy-macro-rail <-- An excellent article from this awesome site that solves this problem.
(2) We need lots more light
Focusing will be hard because we may not be able to see much.
(a) Throw lots of light on the subject (difficult 'cause the lens will be so close to it), or:
(b) Use long shutter speeds.
I took this macro picture (http://www.gnurple.net/gallery/v/Cameras/camera-tests/macro-tests/p31203...) of a CRT television. You'd think that all the bright light coming from the screen would make for an easy shot, but it took 8s to capture a good photo of the screen.
OR...
Or... you can get macro extension tubes and use 1 lens, and get pretty much the same results. Macro Extension tubes can be had for about ±$10
Downside is, they require stop-down metering.
macro
A lot of great advice and comments here to get someone started or even for people with a more experience skill-set. I would like to advise caution when using cheap $10 or $20 extension tubes. I have seen lens fall of cameras when these are used. If you are serious about macro you may have to eventually purchase brand name tubes such as those from your camera manufacturer or perhaps quality brand names like Kenko!
All the Best!
Brian Carey
never had a problem with my macro tubes
I got macro tubes of Ebay over a year ago. Total cost was $9 - in that $8 was for shipping (lol!)
Anyhow... the macro tubes I got were the 3 ring macro CNC (Canon EOS fit). The tubes are 9mm tube, 16mm tube, and 30mm tube. They fit and finish on them is amazing. The bayonet mount has a positive click on the camera body and the lens mount has a sprung loaded pin that holds the lens well.
The only flaw is the 30mm is pretty much useless as it throws out your focus way too much - you're lens ends up either 1mm away or touches the subject. I tend to use either 9mm, 16mm or both combined, which gives me a little lee-way.
I usually use the macro tubes with my 35-80mm (often regarded as the worst EF lens ever LOL), which results in fantastic macros.
I wish I had some examples to show, but i haven't show macro in a while and have no examples online right now.
tube + convex lens
The simpliest way to shoot macro photo is to have a plastic tube with a convex lens stuck on one side.
Then you put the tube on your camera lens and move back en forth - a few centimeters - to focus - close the aperture to increase depth of field -.
Here is a DIY lens I have made :


And a photo taken with a simple lumix TZ5 point and shoot camera :

electrical tape
I have reverse mounted lenses of the same size (for me 52mm nikon lenses) end to end with electrical tape.
Mount one lens to camera, hold second lens firmly and carefully run a piece of electrical tape around both lenses. This has worked for me when mounting a 50mm F2 to my dslr kit lens.
Cheers!
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